Watch Manufacturer: Switzerland vs China — How to Choose
TLDR - How to make the best decision on your manufacturer location
Choosing between a Chinese or Swiss watch manufacturer hinges on positioning, cost structure, and customer perception. China delivers unbeatable unit prices, integrated supply-chains, and fast lead times; Switzerland offers peerless prestige, strict quality control, and the legally protected Swiss Made label. Early-stage brands can validate the market affordably through Chinese OEM production, while a hybrid model (Asian components + Swiss assembly) secures both savings and the cachet of Swiss origin. For labels aiming at the luxury segment, Swiss assembly remains the surest path to high perceived value and long-term brand equity — a route perfected by Bryek.
Introduction
The global watch manufacturing landscape is split between two powerhouses. Switzerland, cradle of fine horology since the 16-th century, commands respect for meticulous craftsmanship, chronometer precision, and a heritage that justifies premium price points. China, meanwhile, has become the volume leader, producing more than half a billion watches a year thanks to economical labor, consolidated supply chains, and remarkable flexibility.
For an entrepreneur deciding where to build a new collection, the question is not only “Who can make the product?” but “Which origin story will sustain my brand positioning and gross margin five years from now?” This article dissects both options, compares them on cost, lead time, and perceived quality, and shows how to leverage each manufacturing hub without compromising authenticity.
Differences between watchmaking in Switzerland and in China
Which country is the best for manufacturing watches?
The best country to manufacture watches depends on the objective: Switzerland dominates the luxury segment thanks to its hand-finished movements, COSC chronometer precision and its Swiss Made label which justifies a premium of 20-50%; China remains unbeatable for mass production with very low MOQs, rapid tooling and an integrated supply chain which greatly reduces the unit cost.
Why Switzerland prevails in prestige
Swiss workshops are home to centuries-old expertise: hand-finished calibers, Côtes de Genève decoration, and multi-stage quality control protocols governed by strict federal regulations. The simple "Swiss Made"
designation sends a powerful signal to collectors: the movement, assembly, and final testing have been carried out
according to rigorous standards—an invaluable label for watches priced above €1,000.
Why China excels in scalability
Shenzhen and Dongguan are home to fully integrated factories where cases, dials, and bracelets are
produced in close proximity to surface treatment and testing lines. Combined with favorable labor costs, this integration reduces lead times to 8–12 weeks for a 500-piece run. Modern Chinese OEMs now offer sapphire crystals, 316L stainless steel cases, and even tourbillon movements, narrowing the quality gap in the entry-level and mid-range segments.
Key points to remember
If your roadmap focuses on high-margin, low-volume luxury, Switzerland is the optimal production location. However, for validating a design at scale or targeting a price-sensitive clientele, China offers speed and cost savings. The following sections detail these trade-offs with specific figures.
Are Swiss Made watches superior to Chinese-made watches?
As soon as you delve into the world of watchmaking, one thing becomes clear: the Swiss Made label acts as a seal of distinction. It embodies several very concrete realities. First, the movement – the beating heart of the watch
– must originate in Switzerland, be cased and regulated on Swiss soil, and then undergo a final, equally Swiss, quality control inspection . Then comes the financial constraint: at least 60% of the total cost must come from Switzerland. In other words, even if some seemingly insignificant parts – hands, gaskets, sometimes the case – come from Asia, the most expensive and expertly crafted components remain Swiss.
Why does this distinction matter? First, for chronometric precision : COSC-certified Swiss calibers undergo fifteen days of testing, in five positions and three temperatures. A Swiss chronometer rarely deviates by more than four seconds a day, whereas a good Asian movement can lose fifteen. Then there are the handcrafted finishes : mirror beveling, Côtes de Genève, meticulous perlage. Every stroke of light
A polished bridge suggests that a watchmaker has meticulously examined the piece under a loupe. Finally, there's durability : high-end lubricants, tight micromechanical tolerances, and serial numbers that facilitate tracking over decades. All of this instills such confidence that buyers readily accept paying 20 to 50% more.
"Swiss Made" vs. "Made in Switzerland": a key legal difference for manufacturers
In practice, both terms refer to the same thing: a watch whose value, assembly, and final validation are indeed Swiss. However, only the "Swiss Made" designation, in English, is strictly regulated by the 2017 federal ordinance. The "Made in Switzerland" label is very rarely found on a dial; it does not benefit from the same legal protections. Alongside these, one encounters the more ambiguous terms "Swiss Movement" (Swiss movement, assembled elsewhere) and "Swiss Parts" (components predominantly Swiss, assembled outside Switzerland). These designations may reassure a mid-range audience, but they do not offer the same prestige.
The ordinance calculates the Swiss share by value, not by quantity of parts: a case machined in Asia can very well coexist with a Swiss movement and assembly carried out by Bryek in the canton of Neuchâtel, provided that the total Swiss content exceeds the regulatory threshold. Since 2021,
the law goes further: half the value of the movement itself must remain Swiss, in order to prevent "tricks" involving importing a cheap caliber and then artificially inflating its price. Customs and the Swiss Watch Federation are vigilant; a false "Swiss Made" claim results in seizures and fines.
The impact of Swiss Made on the positioning of a watch brand
• Luxury storytelling : it's impossible to sell high-end products without the label; Enthusiasts instinctively seek it out.
• Cost optimization : a hybrid model – Asian components, Swiss assembly – allows the brand to obtain the Swiss Made designation while remaining competitive. Bryek 's expertise illustrates this approach: the workshop receives cases and dials machined in Asia, uses a Swiss movement, performs final adjustments and testing in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and thus delivers a legally Swiss Made watch.
Mid-range alternative : if the target audience prefers perceived value to prestige Absolutely, a mention of Swiss Movement may suffice, especially when combined with a lower retail price.
In short, Swiss Made is not just a marketing term: it's a contract of trust based on strict criteria and a centuries-old heritage. For a young brand aiming for international recognition, obtaining this seal of approval through a Swiss assembler remains the surest strategy for establishing credibility – and that's precisely where Bryek 's expertise comes into play.
Comparison of watch manufacturers: Swiss vs China
Export price (2024). A Swiss-made watch leaves the country at about US $ 1 837 a piece for roughly fifteen million units, whereas Chinese factories export at barely US $ 4 per watch for nearly six-hundred million pieces. The huge gap means Swiss production supports far higher gross-margins, while China wins on rock-bottom unit cost.
Minimum order quantity (MOQ). Swiss private-label workshops—such as Chrono AG—will start a ready-to-customise run from roughly 25 to 100 pieces and accept 100–200 for a fully bespoke model. In contrast, a serious Shenzhen OEM like Romlicen Watch can launch at fifty pieces for a stock design but usually asks 300–500 when you insist on a custom case or special PVD finish. China is therefore ideal for amortising tooling on mid-sized volumes, while Switzerland tolerates ultra-small luxury batches.
Production lead-times. A Swiss catalogue model can ship within a few weeks; a ground-up Swiss OEM project—including prototyping and quality certification—often stretches to four-to-six months. Chinese plants need only six-to-twelve weeks from design approval to finished goods (shipping not counted), which makes them perfect for fast market tests, although fully custom Swiss work provides more checkpoints and traceability.
Controls and certifications. Switzerland offers the legally protected Swiss Made label—requiring at least 60 % Swiss value plus assembly and QC on Swiss soil—and, if desired, COSC chronometer testing, both of which strengthen a luxury image. Chinese factories follow internal ISO procedures, and quality depends on the contract; there is no protected geographical designation, but brands can legally state “Swiss Movement” when the calibre is imported from Switzerland.
Practical impact. Choose China when speed and low unit price matter most—ideal for proof-of-concept runs or value-oriented collections. Opt for Switzerland when you sell premium pieces that need tight compliance and a strong storytelling hook. For many young brands, mixing both—Asian components followed by Swiss assembly—secures competitive costs while still unlocking the prestige and reassurance clients expect from Swiss Made.
1. Cost structure among Swiss and Chinese watch manufacturers
• Labor : A Swiss watchmaker costs on average 8-10 times more than a counterpart qualified in Shenzhen.
• Components : buying a Sellita caliber in Switzerland (~€150)weighs heavily in the BOM, whereas an equivalent Seagull movement costs < €20.
• Logistics : Importing from Asia involves freight and duties; however, the unit gain remains substantial. as long as the volumes exceed ~300 pcs.
Hybrid lever : producing case, dial, bracelet in Asia then assembling at Bryek Horlogerie Sàrl in Switzerland makes it possible to reach the 60% Swiss Made threshold while dividing the total cost by ~2 compared to 100% Swiss production.
2. Minimum order quantity and flexibility: differences between Swiss and Chinese manufacturers
• Switzerland : private-label workshops like Chrono AG accept orders of 10 pieces or more for catalogue models; for a 100% custom model, expect to pay 100-200 pieces.
• China : OEM factories advertise a minimum quantity of 50 pcs for existing designs, but quickly rise to 300-500 pcs when custom housing or special PVD treatment is involved.
3. Production lead times at a Swiss manufacturer vs. a Chinese manufacturer
• China : 6-12 weeks are sufficient to prototype, adjust, produce and ship a Pilot series. Ideal for testing a design on Kickstarter and then iterating.
• Switzerland : a Swiss Made ready-to-wear garment can be released "in a few weeks", but a full OEM project involves prototyping, testing, regulatory validation: expect a complete cycle of 18-24 weeks .
4. Perceived quality and certifications according to the country of manufacture
• Swiss Made : strong legal value, luxury storytelling; COSC controls possible for precision.
• Asia : highly variable quality; it is essential to stipulate a quality control plan (AQL inspection, leak tests, adjustment on timegrapher).
• Target market : if your audience associates watchmaking with prestige, Switzerland wins; if Your audience prioritizes design + price; Asia can satisfy this.
5. Storytelling and premiumization based on the country of origin
A dial bearing the Swiss Made label instantly inspires international confidence. Conversely, a Made in China label may require more explanation (materials, testing, warranty) to dispel doubts. In a world saturated with micro-brands, Swiss assembly by Bryek Horlogerie Sàrl becomes a key differentiator: you demonstrate both cost control (Asian components) and a commitment to quality (final Swiss inspection).
Hybrid strategy between Chinese manufacturers and Swiss assembly
The "all Swiss" option can blow the budget; the "all Chinese" option becomes problematic as soon as you target the premium segment. The winning strategy, therefore, is to combine the best of both worlds : have cases, dials, and bracelets machined in Asia, then ship these components to Bryek for assembly and final inspection.
• 60% Swiss Made threshold : with a Sellita caliber (ÿ €150)+ assembly in Switzerland (ÿ €40),you already cover the largest part of the value; Asian components (ÿ €50)fall below the 40% threshold. Result: legally acquired Swiss Made label, Federal Finance Administration.
• Reduced MOQs : on the Swiss side, some workshops accept a minimum of 10 pieces for a collection on the Chrono AG Private Label Watches catalogue. On the Chinese side, a serious OEM like Romlicen starts
at 50 Romlicen pieces.
• Timing : rapid prototyping in China (6–12 weeks), industrial production phase (12 weeks) and finally assembly in Switzerland (2–4 weeks) = launch in less than 6 months, which is much shorter than a 100% Swiss development.
• Storytelling : you show that your brand supports Swiss craftsmanship while remaining transparent about the supply chain — an asset for trustworthiness.
Key takeaway : assembly at Bryek Horlogerie Sàrl opens the door to luxury markets while maintaining a cost-effectiveness close to Asian production.
he step-by-step guide to deciding
1. Segment your target market : define whether you are aiming for luxury positioning or value positioning
segment
2. Establish your BOM budget : calculate the difference between an Asian caliber (~€20) Seagull) and a Swiss caliber (~150 €Sellita).
3. Choose the optimal volume : < 100 pcs? Swiss workshop; 300-500 pcs? Chinese OEM with reinforced QC.
4. Planning the timeline : allow 6-12 weeks in Asia + 4 weeks for shipping. versus 18-24 weeks for a fully Swiss production.
5. Establish the QC protocol : on-site AQL inspection, timegrapher setup, testing Water resistance of at least 5 ATM.
6. Tell the origin story : prepare a transparent storytelling approach (design in Europe, Swiss assembly, high-quality Asian components).
7. Secure after-sales service : partner workshop in Switzerland for servicing; return logistics simplified for your EU/US customers.
Conclusion: Choosing between a watch manufacturer Swiss or Chinese for your brand
The Switzerland vs. China duel is not black and white:
China : champion of cost-benefit ratio, responsiveness and average MOQs. Ideal for testing a concept or a market
Switzerland : a bastion of prestige, exhaustive quality control, and the Swiss Made label which justifies a price increase of up to 50%.
The winning combination for a young premium brand is to intelligently source its components
in Asia and then entrust the assembly and final inspection to a renowned Swiss workshop. Bryek Horlogerie Sàrl has mastered this hybrid model: you benefit from Asian flexibility and the Swiss seal of approval,
without compromising on quality or brand image.